At Lalo's, the hours are odd but the food is great
Sacramento Bee, Aug. 16, 2009
Here we have a restaurant that opens too late for breakfast, closes too early for dinner, is often too crowded at lunch but is wonderful all the same.
Devotion to this family-owned little Sacramento eatery comes with its own hazards. It may get you in trouble with your boss, your doctor, your tailor. It will have you doing odd things at odd hours, like slipping out of the house on a weekend morning to get dibs on lamb barbacoa, or cutting out of work early to race to Lalo's before it closes, inexplicably, at 6 p.m.
It's all part of the charm.
Enter through the front door when the place is crowded and see what I mean. The first thing you will hear above the din is the sizzle from the kitchen, where Cecilia Tinoco runs the show with the focus and passion of an artisan.
Step toward the pass-through window and you will catch a glimpse of the griddle, the stove, the busy hands making food dance from the heat to the plate. Tortas, burritos, quesadillas, omelets, huaraches. Carnitas, pollo, al pastor, cabeza, lengua (more on these in a moment).
It's no wonder devotees look at Lalo's Restaurant as a place that rings so true – a Mexican Mexican restaurant, if that makes sense. For those who are already on the Lalo's bandwagon, here's a scoop: The family plans to open a second one in Rio Linda in the next couple of months.
The current Lalo's stands out as a culinary mecca in a section of town that is part residential and plenty industrial. It is a would-be dive whose food elevates everything else, a place with a rustic kitchen, brightly painted dining room walls, framed photos of food near the cash register, vinyl checkered tablecloths on Formica tables, plain chairs straight from the discount restaurant supply store.
Folks come from near and far to fill those seats because this little restaurant makes good on its modest intentions – serving Mexican regional dishes from recipes passed through the generations.
The first time I asked Cecilia Tinoco about the family's 5-year-old business, her voice cracked and tears welled in her eyes when she mentioned her family working together. Lalo's is named for her 89-year-old grandfather who lives in Mexico.
It is a heartfelt family operation, including Tinoco, her husband, Weneeslao Espindola Tinoco, and his 20-year-old fraternal twins, Cecilia and Juan (who will be departing soon to join the Marine Corps).
Sure, there are other ethnic eateries in town that get the details right without dumbing down the menu. But if you're the type of culinary soul who goes through life searching for all that is real and true about cooking and culture, you'll see what I mean about Lalo's.
"I want people to leave with happy stomach," she said with a smile.
Tinoco is self-conscious about her English. It's in the kitchen where she expresses herself best, and where her message is clearest.
My order begins with a piece of performance art – the molcajete ($10, which serves at least two). Cecilia slices a piece of cactus and places it on the hot griddle, next to pieces of chicken, beef and spicy chorizo. Imagine how that sounds and smells up close. Meanwhile, the salsa broth is simmering in a pan on the stove. Next to it, a rough-surfaced black bowl made of lava stone heats over an open flame.
"I make it with lots of love," said the chef. She drapes the ribbons of cooked cactus around the bowl, tucks in the pieces of meat and then pours the hot broth of the salsa over the even hotter bowl, prompting an explosive sizzle, a burst of steam that rises to the ceiling, causing my nostrils to flare. The aroma is spicy and complex and heady, unmistakably Mexican.
At my table, I pick pieces out of the hot bowl, cut them up and place them in a small, warm tortilla, the first of several. It is the way Cecilia's elders did it for years in and around Mexico City, where the cuisine took root through many generations.
On another visit, I sampled a variety of tacos ($1.25 each), from the smooth-tasting marinated grilled pork called al pastor, to the spicy heat of cabeza (yes, beef head), and the tender shredded carnitas. If you want tasty beef tongue, ask for the lengua.
Showing posts with label Latino Cooking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Latino Cooking. Show all posts
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Saturday, May 2, 2009
Latino foods blended with other cuisines
Latino flavors being blended with other cuisines
By KELLY DiNARDO, News Ok, April 29, 2009
The latest thing in Latino cooking is a little less Latino.
The growing political and cultural clout of American Hispanics has infused the collective American dinner plate with the flavors of the Latino kitchen. And it turns out that culinary cultural exchange goes in both directions.
As Hispanic communities have grown and increasingly rubbed elbows with neighbors, the American Latino kitchen has changed, too, adopting more of the flavors and ingredients of other cuisines, says Daisy Martinez of Food Network’s "Viva Daisy!”
The result is an exciting fusion of Hispanic, Asian, Italian and all-American cooking.
"I’ve had Southern barbecue pulled pork tacos. I’ve seen Mexican sushi with jicama and ceviche shrimp,” says Ken Rubin, a culinary anthropologist at The International Culinary Schools at The Art Institute of Portland in Oregon. "Cuisines are very fluid.”
Some Hispanic chefs, such as Jose Garces, an Ecuadorian-American who runs several restaurants in Philadelphia, have built careers out of meshing other cuisines with Hispanic cooking.
Garces recently opened Chifa in Philadelphia, a Peruvian-Chinese spot inspired by Douglas Rodriguez’s nuevo Latino movement, which put haute Latino cuisine on the menu, and the molecular gastronomy of Spanish chef Ferran Adria.
Garces creates dishes such as a traditional hiramasa ceviche topped with a mustard foam.
"We take a traditional cooking style like ceviche and add one culinary technique like the aerated mustard and create something totally different,” Garces says. "The use of techniques and applying them to traditional foods is the core of how things have changed.”
By KELLY DiNARDO, News Ok, April 29, 2009
The latest thing in Latino cooking is a little less Latino.
The growing political and cultural clout of American Hispanics has infused the collective American dinner plate with the flavors of the Latino kitchen. And it turns out that culinary cultural exchange goes in both directions.
As Hispanic communities have grown and increasingly rubbed elbows with neighbors, the American Latino kitchen has changed, too, adopting more of the flavors and ingredients of other cuisines, says Daisy Martinez of Food Network’s "Viva Daisy!”
The result is an exciting fusion of Hispanic, Asian, Italian and all-American cooking.
"I’ve had Southern barbecue pulled pork tacos. I’ve seen Mexican sushi with jicama and ceviche shrimp,” says Ken Rubin, a culinary anthropologist at The International Culinary Schools at The Art Institute of Portland in Oregon. "Cuisines are very fluid.”
Some Hispanic chefs, such as Jose Garces, an Ecuadorian-American who runs several restaurants in Philadelphia, have built careers out of meshing other cuisines with Hispanic cooking.
Garces recently opened Chifa in Philadelphia, a Peruvian-Chinese spot inspired by Douglas Rodriguez’s nuevo Latino movement, which put haute Latino cuisine on the menu, and the molecular gastronomy of Spanish chef Ferran Adria.
Garces creates dishes such as a traditional hiramasa ceviche topped with a mustard foam.
"We take a traditional cooking style like ceviche and add one culinary technique like the aerated mustard and create something totally different,” Garces says. "The use of techniques and applying them to traditional foods is the core of how things have changed.”
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Latino event brings out flavors
Sabor Latino offers a taste of restaurants' fare Saturday in Plainfield
By MARK SPIVEY • Staff Writer • April 8, 2009
PLAINFIELD — Some of the city's many Hispanic restaurants will feature their fare at "Sabor Latino: A Taste of Latin Plainfield," an event scheduled for this weekend that was organized to benefit two city nonprofit organizations and memorialize a beloved activist.
The city's downtown is home to dozens of Hispanic eateries ranging from small bakeries and cafes to sit-down restaurants, and at least eight such establishments will be featured, serving up native dishes of Honduras, El Salvador, Mexico, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic and Colombia, according to event coordinator Alma Cruz. Cruz also is the director of Latinas En Accion, a downtown Hispanic advocacy organization that will benefit from event proceeds along with Venture and Venture, a skills management organization serving young disadvantaged people. The two nonprofit groups, which will split the proceeds evenly, share the same East Front Street office building.
The four-hour food exhibit, which will include live entertainment, music and vendors, is expected to be the pilot for an annual series and is being held in memory of Pepsi Charles, a beloved city activist who died in 2002 at the age of 53. Charles headed the Plainfield Coalition, a network of 26 city health, human service and education agencies, and founded the "Plainfield Cooks!" fundraiser that annually showcased the top recipes of local chefs.
Cruz said that aside from featuring some of the city's tastiest recipes, the afternoon will center on celebrating Hispanic and African culture and heritage, a cause Charles championed tirelessly.
"It's not only eating and dancing, but it's also teaching kids about their cultures," Cruz said.
"It's really a very interesting thing," agreed John Downs, Sr., president of Venture and Venture, "because our kids can understand all about multiethnic backgrounds."
Tickets for the event will be available in advance or at the door.
Mark Spivey: 908-243-6607; mspivey@MyCentralJersey.com.
By MARK SPIVEY • Staff Writer • April 8, 2009
PLAINFIELD — Some of the city's many Hispanic restaurants will feature their fare at "Sabor Latino: A Taste of Latin Plainfield," an event scheduled for this weekend that was organized to benefit two city nonprofit organizations and memorialize a beloved activist.
The city's downtown is home to dozens of Hispanic eateries ranging from small bakeries and cafes to sit-down restaurants, and at least eight such establishments will be featured, serving up native dishes of Honduras, El Salvador, Mexico, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic and Colombia, according to event coordinator Alma Cruz. Cruz also is the director of Latinas En Accion, a downtown Hispanic advocacy organization that will benefit from event proceeds along with Venture and Venture, a skills management organization serving young disadvantaged people. The two nonprofit groups, which will split the proceeds evenly, share the same East Front Street office building.
The four-hour food exhibit, which will include live entertainment, music and vendors, is expected to be the pilot for an annual series and is being held in memory of Pepsi Charles, a beloved city activist who died in 2002 at the age of 53. Charles headed the Plainfield Coalition, a network of 26 city health, human service and education agencies, and founded the "Plainfield Cooks!" fundraiser that annually showcased the top recipes of local chefs.
Cruz said that aside from featuring some of the city's tastiest recipes, the afternoon will center on celebrating Hispanic and African culture and heritage, a cause Charles championed tirelessly.
"It's not only eating and dancing, but it's also teaching kids about their cultures," Cruz said.
"It's really a very interesting thing," agreed John Downs, Sr., president of Venture and Venture, "because our kids can understand all about multiethnic backgrounds."
Tickets for the event will be available in advance or at the door.
Mark Spivey: 908-243-6607; mspivey@MyCentralJersey.com.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Right drinks for Latino food
What to drink with Latino foods
By VICTORIA BRETT, The Associated Press
Latino food is hot. Often figuratively, sometimes literally. So what do you drink with it?
In Mexico and Cuba, one of the top choices since the 1950s has been the michelada cocktail, and the trend is inching north.
Not just a lime squeezed into the neck of a beer bottle, the michelada — also known as "cerveza preparada" or prepared beer — is a true cocktail and a perfect compliment to Latino food.
Recipes vary by bartender and region, but traditional ingredients include lager beer over ice, juice from one lime, two to three drops of Tabasco, a dash of Worcestershire sauce and pinch of salt.
"It's like a Bloody Mary in a weird way," says Lourdes Castro, author of the recent cookbook, "Simply Mexican." "It gives Latino food a different dimension. The acid from the lime brings out the flavors in the beer and the food."
Castro says a michelada goes perfectly with shredded pork stew spiked with smoky chipotle tomato sauce.
"The beer and pork combination goes really well together. It's a classic pairing in Cuba," she says. "The effervescence from the beer is good with something on the heavier side, like stew. The combination lightens up the meal."
The smoky chipotles in this stew add deep flavors and moderate heat. Mexican crema is the traditional accompaniment, but sour cream is a fine substitute. Either will help tame the heat.
While this stew can be eaten with a spoon, it is thick (and delicious) enough to scoop up dip-style with the tortilla chips.
SHREDDED PORK STEW WITH SMOKY CHIPOTLE TOMATO SAUCE
Start to finish: 1 hour 45 minutes (45 minutes active)
Servings: 6
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1 pound pork shoulder
2 bay leaves
3 cloves garlic (2 crushed and 1 chopped)
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 pound fresh Mexican chorizo, casing removed
1 medium yellow onion, sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1 1⁄2 pounds (about 7) plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise, cored and sliced
2 canned chipotle chilies in adobo sauce, chopped
1⁄4 cup adobo sauce (from the canned chipotles)
1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano
2 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed from stem
2 sprigs fresh marjoram, leaves removed from stem
6 sprigs fresh cilantro, to garnish
Tortilla chips, to serve
Mexican crema or sour cream, to serve
1. Place the pork in a large saucepan. Add enough water to cover the meat by 1 inch. Add the bay leaves and crushed garlic. Bring to a boil and skim off the grayish foam that rises to the top during the first few minutes.
2. Lower heat to simmer and cook for 45 minutes, partially covered, or until the pork is tender. Allow the pork to cool in the water, then drain, reserving 1 cup of the liquid. Shred the pork by pulling apart the fibers with your fingers. Set aside.
3. In a large saucepan over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the chorizo and cook, breaking it apart as you stir, until it begins to render its fat. Using a slotted spoon, remove the chorizo from the pan and set it aside.
4. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the pan and set over medium. Add the onion and remaining chopped garlic, then saute until the onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes.
5. Add the shredded pork and salt, then saute for another 3 minutes. Deglaze the pan by pouring in a couple of tablespoons of the reserved cooking water and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof silicone spatula.
6. Add the chorizo, tomatoes, chipotles, adobo sauce, oregano, thyme and marjoram. Stir well and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour in the remaining reserved pork cooking water and continue simmering, uncovered, for 25 minutes.
To serve, transfer the stew to a large shallow bowl and garnish with cilantro. Serve with tortilla chips and Mexican crema or sour cream.
Recipe from Lourdes Castro's "Simply Mexican," Ten Speed Press, 2009
Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 574 calories; 394 calories from fat; 44 g fat (15 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 117 mg cholesterol; 11 g carbohydrate; 32 g protein; 3 g fiber; 1,430 mg sodium.
By VICTORIA BRETT, The Associated Press
Latino food is hot. Often figuratively, sometimes literally. So what do you drink with it?
In Mexico and Cuba, one of the top choices since the 1950s has been the michelada cocktail, and the trend is inching north.
Not just a lime squeezed into the neck of a beer bottle, the michelada — also known as "cerveza preparada" or prepared beer — is a true cocktail and a perfect compliment to Latino food.
Recipes vary by bartender and region, but traditional ingredients include lager beer over ice, juice from one lime, two to three drops of Tabasco, a dash of Worcestershire sauce and pinch of salt.
"It's like a Bloody Mary in a weird way," says Lourdes Castro, author of the recent cookbook, "Simply Mexican." "It gives Latino food a different dimension. The acid from the lime brings out the flavors in the beer and the food."
Castro says a michelada goes perfectly with shredded pork stew spiked with smoky chipotle tomato sauce.
"The beer and pork combination goes really well together. It's a classic pairing in Cuba," she says. "The effervescence from the beer is good with something on the heavier side, like stew. The combination lightens up the meal."
The smoky chipotles in this stew add deep flavors and moderate heat. Mexican crema is the traditional accompaniment, but sour cream is a fine substitute. Either will help tame the heat.
While this stew can be eaten with a spoon, it is thick (and delicious) enough to scoop up dip-style with the tortilla chips.
SHREDDED PORK STEW WITH SMOKY CHIPOTLE TOMATO SAUCE
Start to finish: 1 hour 45 minutes (45 minutes active)
Servings: 6
advertising
1 pound pork shoulder
2 bay leaves
3 cloves garlic (2 crushed and 1 chopped)
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 pound fresh Mexican chorizo, casing removed
1 medium yellow onion, sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1 1⁄2 pounds (about 7) plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise, cored and sliced
2 canned chipotle chilies in adobo sauce, chopped
1⁄4 cup adobo sauce (from the canned chipotles)
1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano
2 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed from stem
2 sprigs fresh marjoram, leaves removed from stem
6 sprigs fresh cilantro, to garnish
Tortilla chips, to serve
Mexican crema or sour cream, to serve
1. Place the pork in a large saucepan. Add enough water to cover the meat by 1 inch. Add the bay leaves and crushed garlic. Bring to a boil and skim off the grayish foam that rises to the top during the first few minutes.
2. Lower heat to simmer and cook for 45 minutes, partially covered, or until the pork is tender. Allow the pork to cool in the water, then drain, reserving 1 cup of the liquid. Shred the pork by pulling apart the fibers with your fingers. Set aside.
3. In a large saucepan over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the chorizo and cook, breaking it apart as you stir, until it begins to render its fat. Using a slotted spoon, remove the chorizo from the pan and set it aside.
4. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the pan and set over medium. Add the onion and remaining chopped garlic, then saute until the onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes.
5. Add the shredded pork and salt, then saute for another 3 minutes. Deglaze the pan by pouring in a couple of tablespoons of the reserved cooking water and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof silicone spatula.
6. Add the chorizo, tomatoes, chipotles, adobo sauce, oregano, thyme and marjoram. Stir well and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour in the remaining reserved pork cooking water and continue simmering, uncovered, for 25 minutes.
To serve, transfer the stew to a large shallow bowl and garnish with cilantro. Serve with tortilla chips and Mexican crema or sour cream.
Recipe from Lourdes Castro's "Simply Mexican," Ten Speed Press, 2009
Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 574 calories; 394 calories from fat; 44 g fat (15 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 117 mg cholesterol; 11 g carbohydrate; 32 g protein; 3 g fiber; 1,430 mg sodium.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Latino foods provide fresh, colorful flavors
Authentic Latino Foods Deliver Fresh Flavors in a Lighter Form
Msnbc.com, March. 18, 2009
NEW YORK, NY - A new generation of authentic Latino foods is emphasizing pure ingredients, vivid flavors and lighter recipes, according to "Latino Foods: The Next Wave Culinary Trend Mapping Report" by the Center for Culinary Development (CCD) and Packaged Facts. In contrast to heavier, higher-fat Tex-Mex fare now integrated into American eating, emerging food trends from the Caribbean and Central and South America point to foods altogether more healthful and flavorful.
Driving the wave. Multiple drivers are propelling this new wave of Latino food forward in the U.S., beyond the growing and diverse Latino population now at roughly 15%, which is projected to rise to 25% by 2050. While Latinos seek to connect to their heritage through these regional foods, other Americans look to authentic recipes in an increased desire for original and fresh flavor.
"Just as Pan-Asian foods have brought new flavor and ingredient excitement to the American plate and palate, now it's time to make way for Pan-Latin," says Kimberly Egan, CEO of CCD.
New ingredients from diverse sources. The Mexican herb epazote, Yucatecan sour Seville oranges and mild Peruvian aji amarillo chiles are now flavoring restaurant fare and gourmet recipes. Mexican cheese and soft corn tortillas are transforming taco night into something more culturally authentic.
Authentically healthful. This authenticity is also naturally healthier. The everyday foods of Latin America don't relay as much on fat and instead use fresh ingredients for flavor. Think ultra-fresh tableside guacamole or lime-kissed rotisserie chicken. Olive oil-based Puerto Rican sofrito is the foundation of myriad regional dishes.
Which of these will follow the mojito and evolve into a popular flavor profile. Saville orange gum, anyone?
The Culinary Trend Mapping Report is co-published by the Center for Culinary Development and Packaged Facts. Individual issues and annual subscriptions are available at www.packagedfacts.com/landing/culinarytrends.asp.
Msnbc.com, March. 18, 2009
NEW YORK, NY - A new generation of authentic Latino foods is emphasizing pure ingredients, vivid flavors and lighter recipes, according to "Latino Foods: The Next Wave Culinary Trend Mapping Report" by the Center for Culinary Development (CCD) and Packaged Facts. In contrast to heavier, higher-fat Tex-Mex fare now integrated into American eating, emerging food trends from the Caribbean and Central and South America point to foods altogether more healthful and flavorful.
Driving the wave. Multiple drivers are propelling this new wave of Latino food forward in the U.S., beyond the growing and diverse Latino population now at roughly 15%, which is projected to rise to 25% by 2050. While Latinos seek to connect to their heritage through these regional foods, other Americans look to authentic recipes in an increased desire for original and fresh flavor.
"Just as Pan-Asian foods have brought new flavor and ingredient excitement to the American plate and palate, now it's time to make way for Pan-Latin," says Kimberly Egan, CEO of CCD.
New ingredients from diverse sources. The Mexican herb epazote, Yucatecan sour Seville oranges and mild Peruvian aji amarillo chiles are now flavoring restaurant fare and gourmet recipes. Mexican cheese and soft corn tortillas are transforming taco night into something more culturally authentic.
Authentically healthful. This authenticity is also naturally healthier. The everyday foods of Latin America don't relay as much on fat and instead use fresh ingredients for flavor. Think ultra-fresh tableside guacamole or lime-kissed rotisserie chicken. Olive oil-based Puerto Rican sofrito is the foundation of myriad regional dishes.
Which of these will follow the mojito and evolve into a popular flavor profile. Saville orange gum, anyone?
The Culinary Trend Mapping Report is co-published by the Center for Culinary Development and Packaged Facts. Individual issues and annual subscriptions are available at www.packagedfacts.com/landing/culinarytrends.asp.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Latino flavor in Baltimore
Table Talk: South American Grill brings more Latino flavor to the area
By Elizabeth Large | Baltimore Sun Restaurant Critic March 11, 2009
South American Grill
South American Grill's Arlin Bleclic shows off the Prato Feito House Plate, which includes steak, egg, beans and salad. (Baltimore Sun photo by Elizabeth Malby / March 5, 2009)
Latino restaurants are clearly the Next Big Thing, but authentic places haven't exactly proliferated in this area except for the small businesses in East Baltimore. That may be changing. We saw the excitement generated by the Mari Luna Latin Grille in Pikesville. Now the South American Grill (574 Cranbrook Road, 410-628-0188) has opened in the Cranbrook Shopping Center in Cockeysville. (This is where the Ugly Muffin used to be.) Owner/chef Arlin Bleclic's wife, Anna Paula, is a native of Brazil, so the menu, he says, "leans toward Brazilian dishes."
The place is casual, with prices running from $7 to $16. The house specialties are a signature steak, picanha (a rump cut); Brazilian fried snacks; and yuca fries.
An offbeat feature of the grill is a sort of do-it-yourself "style meal." You pick the meal - a platter, wrap, sandwich or bun. Then you pick the filling or meat. Finally, you pick what style you want (in other words, what South American country's way of preparing it).
The South American Grill, which is open 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day, is BYOB.
Cuadrado on North Avenue Sometime this fall, which will be here quicker than you think, Joe Edwardsen of Joe Squared Pizza will be opening another Latino restaurant, Cuadrado, at 128 W. North Ave., across the street from his pizza place. Cuadrado, which means "square" in Spanish, will be a barbacoa, serving smoked meats wrapped in banana and agave leaves, seasonal ceviche and other South American dishes, with the emphasis on Mexican. Live music and a tequila bar will be part of the mix.
The space needs major renovation - that's why it's taking so long - but when it's finished, there will be seating for some 120 people.
I asked Edwardsen about parking; he's leased a lot behind the building, Joe Squared customers will be glad to hear.
By Elizabeth Large | Baltimore Sun Restaurant Critic March 11, 2009
South American Grill
South American Grill's Arlin Bleclic shows off the Prato Feito House Plate, which includes steak, egg, beans and salad. (Baltimore Sun photo by Elizabeth Malby / March 5, 2009)
Latino restaurants are clearly the Next Big Thing, but authentic places haven't exactly proliferated in this area except for the small businesses in East Baltimore. That may be changing. We saw the excitement generated by the Mari Luna Latin Grille in Pikesville. Now the South American Grill (574 Cranbrook Road, 410-628-0188) has opened in the Cranbrook Shopping Center in Cockeysville. (This is where the Ugly Muffin used to be.) Owner/chef Arlin Bleclic's wife, Anna Paula, is a native of Brazil, so the menu, he says, "leans toward Brazilian dishes."
The place is casual, with prices running from $7 to $16. The house specialties are a signature steak, picanha (a rump cut); Brazilian fried snacks; and yuca fries.
An offbeat feature of the grill is a sort of do-it-yourself "style meal." You pick the meal - a platter, wrap, sandwich or bun. Then you pick the filling or meat. Finally, you pick what style you want (in other words, what South American country's way of preparing it).
The South American Grill, which is open 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day, is BYOB.
Cuadrado on North Avenue Sometime this fall, which will be here quicker than you think, Joe Edwardsen of Joe Squared Pizza will be opening another Latino restaurant, Cuadrado, at 128 W. North Ave., across the street from his pizza place. Cuadrado, which means "square" in Spanish, will be a barbacoa, serving smoked meats wrapped in banana and agave leaves, seasonal ceviche and other South American dishes, with the emphasis on Mexican. Live music and a tequila bar will be part of the mix.
The space needs major renovation - that's why it's taking so long - but when it's finished, there will be seating for some 120 people.
I asked Edwardsen about parking; he's leased a lot behind the building, Joe Squared customers will be glad to hear.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Hispanic shares sweet desires
For the love of flan
Sophi Flan » Creamy egg and milk dessert is a favorite in Mexico and, thanks to the custard king, it's catching on in Utah.
By Kathy Stephenson The Salt Lake Tribune 03/03/2009
Just call Horacio Vallejo the custard king.
Every week the 35-year-old business owner bakes more than 200 Mexican flan -- some 2,000 slices -- for Hispanic restaurants and markets from Brigham City to Payson.
In Mexico, this creamy, egg and milk dessert is a national favorite, much like cheesecake or ice cream in America, said Vallejo, the owner of Sophi Flan. "You'll find it in every restaurant in Latin America and Spain."
So just imagine how difficult it was for Vallejo to come to Salt Lake City in 1999 and find nothing like the caramel-coated treat his grandmother made in Mexico City.
Vallejo and his wife, Maribel, spent two or three months experimenting with recipes and ingredients just to enjoy
When Horacio Vallejo came to Utah in 1999 he missed the milk flan made by his grandmother he enjoyed in Mexico. He and his wife started experimenting and soon they came up with a great flan recipe and their company Sophi Flan was born.
"We wanted to make a big and rich flan," said Vallejo.
They were successful. Their final version is a dense "Flan Napolitano" made with whole milk, sweetened condensed milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla and cream cheese.
From the beginning the Vallejo's Salt Lake City neighbors and friends raved about the dessert. It wasn't until they started receiving requests to make it for special events and parties that they decided to turn the side job into a business.
After working all day at a local restaurant, Vallejo would spend his nights in a borrowed commercial kitchen making flan. Initially he sold the dessert to restaurants, such as the Blue Iguana restaurant in Salt Lake City.
"We have customers who say they've never tasted flan so good," said manager, Tina Ambriz. "It really tastes like homemade."
Today, Sophi Flan provides the flan for many of Utah's fast-food Mexican restaurant such as Beto's and Alberto's.
In 2004, Vallejo received a $10,000 loan from the Utah Microenterprise fund, which enabled him to purchase a refrigerated delivery van and other needed equipment. After that, the business was able to expand into Hispanic grocery stores. Rancho Markets,
Marissas and La Herradura De Oro sell the individual-size flans as well as Sophi Flan's rice pudding.
Eli Madrigal, owner of Rancho Markets has been buying Sophi Flan products for about two years. Madrigal said the creamy flan is what her customers prefer and she likes supporting a local businesses.
"The ingredients he uses on his products make makes it different than other (commercial) flans," she said. And even though she loves the custard, she limits herself to one a month.
"I like it," said Madarigal, "But it has too many calories."
With business growing, Vallejo was been able to quit his restaurant job and devote all his time to Sophi Flan, named for the oldest of the Vallejo's four children. The company now has its own commercial kitchen in South Salt Lake and its Web site -- www.sophiflan.com -- is up and running this week.
Except for two employees who help with packaging and kitchen clean-up, Vallejo does all the work himself, from mixing and baking to delivery and marketing.
"When I first started I was cracking eggs by hand and using those small cans of sweetened condensed milk," said Vallejo. "Now everything is easier, something I never imagined when my wife and I started."
kathys@sltrib.com
Sophi Flan » Creamy egg and milk dessert is a favorite in Mexico and, thanks to the custard king, it's catching on in Utah.
By Kathy Stephenson The Salt Lake Tribune 03/03/2009
Just call Horacio Vallejo the custard king.
Every week the 35-year-old business owner bakes more than 200 Mexican flan -- some 2,000 slices -- for Hispanic restaurants and markets from Brigham City to Payson.
In Mexico, this creamy, egg and milk dessert is a national favorite, much like cheesecake or ice cream in America, said Vallejo, the owner of Sophi Flan. "You'll find it in every restaurant in Latin America and Spain."
So just imagine how difficult it was for Vallejo to come to Salt Lake City in 1999 and find nothing like the caramel-coated treat his grandmother made in Mexico City.
Vallejo and his wife, Maribel, spent two or three months experimenting with recipes and ingredients just to enjoy
When Horacio Vallejo came to Utah in 1999 he missed the milk flan made by his grandmother he enjoyed in Mexico. He and his wife started experimenting and soon they came up with a great flan recipe and their company Sophi Flan was born.
"We wanted to make a big and rich flan," said Vallejo.
They were successful. Their final version is a dense "Flan Napolitano" made with whole milk, sweetened condensed milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla and cream cheese.
From the beginning the Vallejo's Salt Lake City neighbors and friends raved about the dessert. It wasn't until they started receiving requests to make it for special events and parties that they decided to turn the side job into a business.
After working all day at a local restaurant, Vallejo would spend his nights in a borrowed commercial kitchen making flan. Initially he sold the dessert to restaurants, such as the Blue Iguana restaurant in Salt Lake City.
"We have customers who say they've never tasted flan so good," said manager, Tina Ambriz. "It really tastes like homemade."
Today, Sophi Flan provides the flan for many of Utah's fast-food Mexican restaurant such as Beto's and Alberto's.
In 2004, Vallejo received a $10,000 loan from the Utah Microenterprise fund, which enabled him to purchase a refrigerated delivery van and other needed equipment. After that, the business was able to expand into Hispanic grocery stores. Rancho Markets,
Marissas and La Herradura De Oro sell the individual-size flans as well as Sophi Flan's rice pudding.
Eli Madrigal, owner of Rancho Markets has been buying Sophi Flan products for about two years. Madrigal said the creamy flan is what her customers prefer and she likes supporting a local businesses.
"The ingredients he uses on his products make makes it different than other (commercial) flans," she said. And even though she loves the custard, she limits herself to one a month.
"I like it," said Madarigal, "But it has too many calories."
With business growing, Vallejo was been able to quit his restaurant job and devote all his time to Sophi Flan, named for the oldest of the Vallejo's four children. The company now has its own commercial kitchen in South Salt Lake and its Web site -- www.sophiflan.com -- is up and running this week.
Except for two employees who help with packaging and kitchen clean-up, Vallejo does all the work himself, from mixing and baking to delivery and marketing.
"When I first started I was cracking eggs by hand and using those small cans of sweetened condensed milk," said Vallejo. "Now everything is easier, something I never imagined when my wife and I started."
kathys@sltrib.com
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Latino market provides right ingredients in Boston
Latin major: Hi-Lo is Hub hot spot for Hispanic ingredients
By Mat Schaffer January 21, 2009
Planning a Latin meal? Then a visit to Hi-Lo Foods is a must - the Jamaica Plain supermarket has the largest selection of hard-to-find Caribbean, Central and South American ingredients in the Boston area.
Manager Bill Jordan began working at the store when it first opened - in November 1963.
“The neighborhood at the time was mostly Eastern European and Irish,” he recalls. “That’s how I first got the idea to bring in products relative to the ethnicities of the people that lived around the store.”
As the neighborhood changed, so did the products on the shelves.
“It was 35 or 40 years ago,” Jordan says. “We had a large influx of Hispanic customers. So we decided to do the same thing. Find out what they buy, find the companies that make those products and go from there.”
Today, Hi-Lo is a treasure trove of Hispanic and West Indian foods.
Walk down the crowded aisles and you’ll find Bolivian quinoa, Peruvian purple corn, Argentine chimichurri and Colombian panela sugar. There are foodstuffs from Venezuela, Uruguay, Guatemala, El Salvador, the Dominican Republic, Jamaica and Puerto Rico.
The Mexican section has everything you need to cook Mexican - from dried chilies to bottled salsas and mole pastes.
Hi-Lo also stocks dozens of fresh Latin American-style sausages, cheeses and tortillas. The produce department is filled with boxes and bins of Caribbean roots and vegetables - from malanga to batata .
All of which are priced considerably less than almost anywhere else.
“We get the sales volume,” Jordan explains. “We find that as long as we promote the products that people are looking for - whether it’s a specific culture or country - and we sell it at a reasonable price or very good price, they’ll come.”
For socializing as well as shopping. Hi-Lo Foods is as much a community center as a market.
“Everybody knows everybody else,” Jordan says. “I’ve seen people come in and talk to people for two to three hours. It’s like a meeting place. We have people coming from everywhere.”
Hi-Lo Foods, 450 Centre St., Jamaica Plain. 617-522-6364.
ARROZ CON CHORIZO Y PASAS
One 7 1/2 oz mild Mexican chorizo
1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 to 2 T canola oil, as needed
1 1/2 c converted rice
1/3 c seedless golden raisins
3 c hot water
1 t salt
1/4 t freshly ground black pepper
1 c frozen peas
2 T chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 large ripe (yellow) plantain
2 hard cooked eggs, peeled and cut into wedges, for garnish
Pimento strips for garnish
Remove the chorizo from its casing and place in a heavy 10-inch skillet with a cover. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally and breaking up the chorizo with a wooden spoon. When the chorizo starts rendering its fat, 3 to 4 minutes, stir in the onion. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring a few times, until the onion is transparent, about 5 minutes. If there is not enough fat and the onion starts sticking, add up to 1 tablespoon of the oil to finish cooking the onion.
Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute to coat the grains with the fat. Add the raisins, water, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over the lowest possible heat for 15 minutes. Scatter the peas and cilantro on top, cover, and finish cooking until all the water has been absorbed and the peas are heated through, about 5 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork, cover and set aside to dry for 5 minutes.
While the rice is cooking, peel the plantain and cut into thirds, then cut each third lengthwise into three slices. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over low heat in a medium size nonstick skillet. Add the plantain, cover, and cook until golden on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and keep warm.
Transfer the rice mixture to a serving platter and arrange the plantain slices, egg wedges and pimento strips on top.
Serve with a tossed salad.
By Mat Schaffer January 21, 2009
Planning a Latin meal? Then a visit to Hi-Lo Foods is a must - the Jamaica Plain supermarket has the largest selection of hard-to-find Caribbean, Central and South American ingredients in the Boston area.
Manager Bill Jordan began working at the store when it first opened - in November 1963.
“The neighborhood at the time was mostly Eastern European and Irish,” he recalls. “That’s how I first got the idea to bring in products relative to the ethnicities of the people that lived around the store.”
As the neighborhood changed, so did the products on the shelves.
“It was 35 or 40 years ago,” Jordan says. “We had a large influx of Hispanic customers. So we decided to do the same thing. Find out what they buy, find the companies that make those products and go from there.”
Today, Hi-Lo is a treasure trove of Hispanic and West Indian foods.
Walk down the crowded aisles and you’ll find Bolivian quinoa, Peruvian purple corn, Argentine chimichurri and Colombian panela sugar. There are foodstuffs from Venezuela, Uruguay, Guatemala, El Salvador, the Dominican Republic, Jamaica and Puerto Rico.
The Mexican section has everything you need to cook Mexican - from dried chilies to bottled salsas and mole pastes.
Hi-Lo also stocks dozens of fresh Latin American-style sausages, cheeses and tortillas. The produce department is filled with boxes and bins of Caribbean roots and vegetables - from malanga to batata .
All of which are priced considerably less than almost anywhere else.
“We get the sales volume,” Jordan explains. “We find that as long as we promote the products that people are looking for - whether it’s a specific culture or country - and we sell it at a reasonable price or very good price, they’ll come.”
For socializing as well as shopping. Hi-Lo Foods is as much a community center as a market.
“Everybody knows everybody else,” Jordan says. “I’ve seen people come in and talk to people for two to three hours. It’s like a meeting place. We have people coming from everywhere.”
Hi-Lo Foods, 450 Centre St., Jamaica Plain. 617-522-6364.
ARROZ CON CHORIZO Y PASAS
One 7 1/2 oz mild Mexican chorizo
1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 to 2 T canola oil, as needed
1 1/2 c converted rice
1/3 c seedless golden raisins
3 c hot water
1 t salt
1/4 t freshly ground black pepper
1 c frozen peas
2 T chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 large ripe (yellow) plantain
2 hard cooked eggs, peeled and cut into wedges, for garnish
Pimento strips for garnish
Remove the chorizo from its casing and place in a heavy 10-inch skillet with a cover. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally and breaking up the chorizo with a wooden spoon. When the chorizo starts rendering its fat, 3 to 4 minutes, stir in the onion. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring a few times, until the onion is transparent, about 5 minutes. If there is not enough fat and the onion starts sticking, add up to 1 tablespoon of the oil to finish cooking the onion.
Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute to coat the grains with the fat. Add the raisins, water, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over the lowest possible heat for 15 minutes. Scatter the peas and cilantro on top, cover, and finish cooking until all the water has been absorbed and the peas are heated through, about 5 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork, cover and set aside to dry for 5 minutes.
While the rice is cooking, peel the plantain and cut into thirds, then cut each third lengthwise into three slices. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over low heat in a medium size nonstick skillet. Add the plantain, cover, and cook until golden on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and keep warm.
Transfer the rice mixture to a serving platter and arrange the plantain slices, egg wedges and pimento strips on top.
Serve with a tossed salad.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Hispanics with diabetes can enjoy traditional foods
Helping Hispanics With Diabetes Enjoy Healthy, Traditional Foods
Emax Health.com
New tools are available to help Hispanics enjoy healthy versions of their favorite recipes and control portion sizes, all designed to reduce their risk of developing diabetes. The recipes and other materials are part of a campaign called Más que comida, es vida, which means “It’s more than food. It’s life.”
The campaign was developed by the National Diabetes Education Program, a joint program of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and the National Institutes of Health.
“Más que comida, es vida provides new tools to Hispanics to prepare traditional foods in a more healthy way. A few simple adjustments can make these dishes healthier and lower in fat and calories,” said Betsy Rodríguez, public health advisor of the National Diabetes Education ProgramÅås Hispanic/Latino Work Group.
Más que comida, es vida features materials written in English and Spanish, including a recipe booklet called Ricas recetas para personas con diabetes y sus familiares (Tasty Recipes for People with Diabetes and Their Families), that offers food ideas specifically designed for the Hispanic palate. Among the delicious and healthy recipes ola), beef or cow included in the booklet are: Spanish omelet (tortilla Espan), turkey stew (carne guisada de res o pavo), Caribbean o), two cheese pizza (pizza de dos quesos), and red snapper (pargo rojo cariben) and avocado tacos (tacos de aguacate).
Compared to whites, Hispanics are disproportionately affected by diabetes. More than 10 percent of Hispanics aged 20 years and older have diagnosed diabetes. Among Hispanics, rates of diabetes are 8.2 percent for Cubans, 11.9 percent for Mexican-Americans, and 12.6 percent for Puerto Ricans.
“Meal preparation is a critical component of diabetes control. Studies show that overweight or obese individuals can prevent or delay diabetes by losing just 5 percent to 7 percent of their total weight,” Rodriquez said.
CDCÅås Division of Diabetes Translation and the NIH jointly sponsor the National Diabetes Education Program, which provides diabetes education to improve treatment and outcomes for people with diabetes, promote early diagnosis and prevent or delay the onset of diabetes.
Emax Health.com
New tools are available to help Hispanics enjoy healthy versions of their favorite recipes and control portion sizes, all designed to reduce their risk of developing diabetes. The recipes and other materials are part of a campaign called Más que comida, es vida, which means “It’s more than food. It’s life.”
The campaign was developed by the National Diabetes Education Program, a joint program of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and the National Institutes of Health.
“Más que comida, es vida provides new tools to Hispanics to prepare traditional foods in a more healthy way. A few simple adjustments can make these dishes healthier and lower in fat and calories,” said Betsy Rodríguez, public health advisor of the National Diabetes Education ProgramÅås Hispanic/Latino Work Group.
Más que comida, es vida features materials written in English and Spanish, including a recipe booklet called Ricas recetas para personas con diabetes y sus familiares (Tasty Recipes for People with Diabetes and Their Families), that offers food ideas specifically designed for the Hispanic palate. Among the delicious and healthy recipes ola), beef or cow included in the booklet are: Spanish omelet (tortilla Espan), turkey stew (carne guisada de res o pavo), Caribbean o), two cheese pizza (pizza de dos quesos), and red snapper (pargo rojo cariben) and avocado tacos (tacos de aguacate).
Compared to whites, Hispanics are disproportionately affected by diabetes. More than 10 percent of Hispanics aged 20 years and older have diagnosed diabetes. Among Hispanics, rates of diabetes are 8.2 percent for Cubans, 11.9 percent for Mexican-Americans, and 12.6 percent for Puerto Ricans.
“Meal preparation is a critical component of diabetes control. Studies show that overweight or obese individuals can prevent or delay diabetes by losing just 5 percent to 7 percent of their total weight,” Rodriquez said.
CDCÅås Division of Diabetes Translation and the NIH jointly sponsor the National Diabetes Education Program, which provides diabetes education to improve treatment and outcomes for people with diabetes, promote early diagnosis and prevent or delay the onset of diabetes.
Monday, December 29, 2008
Latina shares Hispanic culture cooking
Who's Cooking: Marcela Hede of East Northport
ROSEMARY OLANDER December 28, 2008
Lives in East Northport with her husband, Neil, and son, Ian, 3. She also runs a Web site called hispanic-culture-online.com.
When did you learn to cook? My family comes from the region in Colombia called Antioquia Department. It encompasses the Andes. We eat a lot of beans, mainly frijoles cargamanto - large red beans that puff up when you cook them. When I was a child we had full-time help because my parents worked. I would come home from school and stand with the cook on my little bench and help her. But the real moment I learned to cook was when I got married.
How would you describe your cooking style? I think it's very practical. We are busy, but we want to keep our Latin ties alive. And I find it's very convenient to have a pressure cooker, for cooking beans or chicken, because otherwise our cooking style in Colombia can be very time-consuming.
What are some South American foods you incorporate into your daily diet? I like to buy the frozen [fruit] pulps that you can find in Hispanic markets. My son and husband love the blackberry pulp; you combine it in the blender with brown sugar and a little water, and it's a perfect drink with lunch and breakfast. If you add a little ice cream, it makes it nice and frothy.
What's a typical weeknight meal in your home? I like to buy South American-style meat - large pieces of beef that are very thinly sliced - season it with a bit of mashed garlic, adobo or cumin, and salt and then freeze it in individual packages. In the morning I put a package in the refrigerator, and that night I might caramelize onions with olive oil and then cook the meat very quickly. On the side I would have rice and salad with avocado. It's a meal that's ready in 20 minutes.
What's the derivation of ajiaco? This is a typical dish from the capital region of Colombia; people there eat a lot of potatoes. This dish has three types of potatoes, which help thicken the soup, and a special herb called guascas, which adds a smoky flavor. It's very good soup for this time of year because the area where it comes from is very cold.
Are there any Colombian restaurants where you enjoy dining? I like a restaurant in Brentwood called Mi Tierrita, which means "my land." You have to wait on line for a long, long time. The portions are generous, and it's owned by people from Bogotá. They have great juices - guava, blackberry, guanabana. What I really like is the fish soup, a piece of fish in a great thick broth that includes yucca and potatoes and onions.
AJIACO COLOMBIANO
South American potatoes and herbs (e.g., guascas) are available at markets such as Compare and C-Town that carry Hispanic foods.
4 chicken breasts halves with the skin (about 3 pounds)
5 scallions, white part only, chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 chicken bouillon cubes
1 pound criolla potatoes (Colombian yellow potatoes) or small white boiling potatoes, peeled, quartered
1 clove garlic, minced
1 white onion, chopped
1 bunch cilantro, washed and trimmed
2 1/2 pounds sabanera potatoes, or red potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 tablespoons dried guascas
4 ears corn, each cut into 3 sections
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup capers with juice
3 ripe avocados
1. Toss together chicken, half of scallions, salt and pepper; refrigerate about 2 hours. When ready to cook, put the chicken in a large dutch oven or Chambaware pot (a clay pot traditionally used for Colombian cooking) and cover with 4 quarts of water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cover; simmer until chicken is tender, about 35 minutes.
2. Transfer chicken to a platter and let cool. Remove skin from chicken and shred the chicken into thin strips.
3. Add the bouillon cubes and papas criollas to the water and cook until they start to disintegrate, giving the soup a thick but fairly smooth consistency, about 30 minutes.
4. Add the remaining scallions, the garlic, chopped onions, cilantro, sabanera and russet potatoes, guascas and corn. Simmer until potatoes are tender, about 45 minutes. Remove cilantro and scallions, add shredded chicken and heat through. Ladle into bowls and top with a spoonful of cream, a few capers and a few thin slices of avocado. Makes 8 to 10 servings.
know a great home cook? Write Rosemary Olander, Food Dept., Newsday, 235 Pinelawn Rd., Melville, NY 11747-4250 or rosemary.olander@newsday.com.
ROSEMARY OLANDER December 28, 2008
Lives in East Northport with her husband, Neil, and son, Ian, 3. She also runs a Web site called hispanic-culture-online.com.
When did you learn to cook? My family comes from the region in Colombia called Antioquia Department. It encompasses the Andes. We eat a lot of beans, mainly frijoles cargamanto - large red beans that puff up when you cook them. When I was a child we had full-time help because my parents worked. I would come home from school and stand with the cook on my little bench and help her. But the real moment I learned to cook was when I got married.
How would you describe your cooking style? I think it's very practical. We are busy, but we want to keep our Latin ties alive. And I find it's very convenient to have a pressure cooker, for cooking beans or chicken, because otherwise our cooking style in Colombia can be very time-consuming.
What are some South American foods you incorporate into your daily diet? I like to buy the frozen [fruit] pulps that you can find in Hispanic markets. My son and husband love the blackberry pulp; you combine it in the blender with brown sugar and a little water, and it's a perfect drink with lunch and breakfast. If you add a little ice cream, it makes it nice and frothy.
What's a typical weeknight meal in your home? I like to buy South American-style meat - large pieces of beef that are very thinly sliced - season it with a bit of mashed garlic, adobo or cumin, and salt and then freeze it in individual packages. In the morning I put a package in the refrigerator, and that night I might caramelize onions with olive oil and then cook the meat very quickly. On the side I would have rice and salad with avocado. It's a meal that's ready in 20 minutes.
What's the derivation of ajiaco? This is a typical dish from the capital region of Colombia; people there eat a lot of potatoes. This dish has three types of potatoes, which help thicken the soup, and a special herb called guascas, which adds a smoky flavor. It's very good soup for this time of year because the area where it comes from is very cold.
Are there any Colombian restaurants where you enjoy dining? I like a restaurant in Brentwood called Mi Tierrita, which means "my land." You have to wait on line for a long, long time. The portions are generous, and it's owned by people from Bogotá. They have great juices - guava, blackberry, guanabana. What I really like is the fish soup, a piece of fish in a great thick broth that includes yucca and potatoes and onions.
AJIACO COLOMBIANO
South American potatoes and herbs (e.g., guascas) are available at markets such as Compare and C-Town that carry Hispanic foods.
4 chicken breasts halves with the skin (about 3 pounds)
5 scallions, white part only, chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 chicken bouillon cubes
1 pound criolla potatoes (Colombian yellow potatoes) or small white boiling potatoes, peeled, quartered
1 clove garlic, minced
1 white onion, chopped
1 bunch cilantro, washed and trimmed
2 1/2 pounds sabanera potatoes, or red potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 tablespoons dried guascas
4 ears corn, each cut into 3 sections
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup capers with juice
3 ripe avocados
1. Toss together chicken, half of scallions, salt and pepper; refrigerate about 2 hours. When ready to cook, put the chicken in a large dutch oven or Chambaware pot (a clay pot traditionally used for Colombian cooking) and cover with 4 quarts of water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cover; simmer until chicken is tender, about 35 minutes.
2. Transfer chicken to a platter and let cool. Remove skin from chicken and shred the chicken into thin strips.
3. Add the bouillon cubes and papas criollas to the water and cook until they start to disintegrate, giving the soup a thick but fairly smooth consistency, about 30 minutes.
4. Add the remaining scallions, the garlic, chopped onions, cilantro, sabanera and russet potatoes, guascas and corn. Simmer until potatoes are tender, about 45 minutes. Remove cilantro and scallions, add shredded chicken and heat through. Ladle into bowls and top with a spoonful of cream, a few capers and a few thin slices of avocado. Makes 8 to 10 servings.
know a great home cook? Write Rosemary Olander, Food Dept., Newsday, 235 Pinelawn Rd., Melville, NY 11747-4250 or rosemary.olander@newsday.com.
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